100% Cabernet Sauvignon, picked on a flower day and then naturally fermented on skins in 300-litre terracotta amphorae for almost a month, before transferring to barrels for a further six months’ maturation, with 50% of the barrels new. 526 bottles made. The first Vanya was made in 2012. Dark maroon. The nose has notes of spices, chocolate, mocha, coffee beans, cassis, smoked meats and liqueur cherries. There is focus, energy, and great length through to near invisible silky tannins.

The finish lingers gently, as does the memory of the wine. It is so plush and generous and so superbly balanced that it is utterly compelling. It will see twenty to thirty years in the cellar as a doddle. As for the score, one feels rather lousy in not going that extra step, but no doubt Vanya will find a way to exceed even this brilliant wine. Drink 2032–2055.